(Floor
Finish as a Dope Substitute... pg 2)
Covering fragile structures – pre-Futured
tissue Andy: Light
indoor models do not require any kind of sealer
for the covering, as the structures are not dependent
on the strength or water-repellance of the covering.
The tissue should, however, be pre-shrunk, so
that the humidity in the air does not warp it
over time.
On the other hand, on the fragile tail surfaces
of an outdoor model, you may want to seal the
tissue for reasons of strength or appearance.
I’m going to explain a procedure that will
allow you to either pre-shrink or pre-seal tissue
with Future, then apply it to get a tight, attractive
finish without warping. I use a Styrofoam meat
tray as a shrinking frame.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The meat tray sits right side up on my workbench.
I brush full strength Future over the edges and
apply the tissue, as if I was gluing a covering
to the top of the meat tray to cover its contents.
|
|
| |
|
After the Future dries, I now have a sheet
of tissue loosely covering the top of the
meat tray. |
|
|
|
|
| |
|
If it’s sprayed or brushed with water at this
point, it will sag, then shrink and tighten. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
Peel or cut it free and let it “breathe”
for a few hours before covering an indoor model
with it. It won’t be perfectly smooth once
cut off the meat tray for a while, but it won’t
warp your model. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
For tail surfaces of outdoor models and other applications
where very slight tension and strength is needed,
I paint the tissue with thinned 50% Future (instead
of spraying with water) while it’s stuck on
the meat tray frame. It will tighten as it dries.
The key to a tight covering job with such pre-doped
tissue is to cover immediately after you cut it
off of the meat tray. It will maintain its smooth,
tight finish but shrink very little. My Nickel Scale
RWD-5, recently published in the Tissue,
flies with Future pre-doped tissue on wings and
tail surfaces.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
