Build
the Meat Tray Flyer!
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Designed
by Tom Anderson
Article by Dick Fors |
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If you
like to build, and you're looking for an electric
R/C trainer that's "easy" in every sense
of the word, you can't go wrong with the Meat
Tray Flyer. Named for the foam meat trays
the original was built from, this model makes a
very good trainer for the new R/C pilot - or for
anyone who wants a fun and relaxing flyer.
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It's inexpensive, easy to build, and simple
to repair. You won't be afraid to damage this
ship while learning new maneuvers, so kiss
your fear of flying goodbye!
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Editor's Note:
This is a detailed construction article, and
we recommend that you read through it before
getting started. Doing so will ensure a more
enjoyable and successful experience. |
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MATERIALS USED FOR THIS PROJECT
Here's a list of the electronics
I used. You could substitute other makes, models,
and sizes of each... this is just one combination
that works well:
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- Motor – GWS IPS-S1
with 7” Slowflyer prop.
- Speed Control – GWS
- ICS - 100E - 5 amp - no brake.
- Receiver – BlueBird
– BMR-04
- Servos - HiTech HS-55 (need
2)
- Batteries – Worley
high discharge 340 lithium polymer. Two of these
are wired in series.
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Although the original was made from foam meat
trays, I built this version with 1/4"
thick Dow Bluecor foam. This
made for a more sturdy airframe. You could
also substitute pink foam for this, but the
blue is preferable.
Now let's start building! |
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WING CONSTRUCTION
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Cut three pieces 5” X 11.5” for
the three sections of the wing. Be sure your
knife is sharp and that you hold it vertical
while cutting. |
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Two of the wing panels will form the outer
wing sections. Mark and cut rounded corners
for the wingtips on these panels. |
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If the black ink bothers you, it can be removed
with rubbing alcohol (or Vodka!). |
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Here's what you should have so far. |
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Now taper the outer edges of the foam with
a sharp knife or razor blade, and then sand
them to a rounded form. But don’t do
this on the edges that must join to another
panel. |
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Next, form the profile of the panels over
a sharp edge to create an airfoil shape. I
bent six lines across each piece, separating
them by about 1/4”, starting at the
leading edge. Practice on a scrap piece of
foam to avoid breaking your wing panels. |
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It’s not critical, but you could mark the
top of the panels with dots to indicate the ends
of the bend lines. Alcohol will remove them afterwards.
Next, on each outer panel roughly draw what you
want to remove to make the dihedral joints. There’s
probably a better way to do this, but I made an
initial cut inside the line to start, then raised
the tip to the 3" dihedral and continued
trimming until the edge looked about right. I
didn’t remove any material from the center
panel.
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The next step is to sand the rough cut until
it mates smoothly against the center panel's
edge. If you plan to use Gorilla Glue
(or any other polyurethane glue), you can
get by with a fairly wide crack. For other
types of glue or epoxy, you better make a
pretty tight fit. |
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Brace the wingtips up 3" and glue the dihedral
joints. The photo below shows how I held everything
in position until the glue dried. |
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Here's what you'll have after the glue has dried:
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I cleaned off the glue residue with a knife
and sandpaper. |
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