(Dummy
Engines for Scale Models... pg.2)
The next major step is to bring the engine “alive”
by adding details. Based on the pictures one can
see ribs on the crankcase, various plates and covers,
cooling tubes, camshafts, rocker arm covers, screw
heads on cylinder covers, etc. The more you add
the better - anything to kill large flat areas.
For all of the above mainly two materials are used:
balsa rods and paper. I make rods either by turning
on a lathe (for diameters bigger than 2mm), or by
extruding. |
A metal plate with holes of various sizes is used
to extrude small balsa rods. Simply pass a balsa
stick through successively smaller holes until
the desired diameter is achieved.
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Extrusion tool |
With
some fine sanding and dope you are ready to simulate
tubing of any diameter. Exhausts are made the same
way, you only have to combine parts together. A
tricky part is bent tubing. For this you need to
glue two pieces at 90 degrees, sand the outside
corner, and add some fillet on the inside to get
the result you need.
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1/20 scale Green for Sopwith Batboat. Length
5cm. Mainly balsa construction
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Paper is wrapped around balsa to simulate connection
flanges, small diameter variations, or anything
that was sheet-metal on the original.
Thread can be used for cables to sparkplugs.
For extreme detailing I also use soft wire (valve
springs, for example). The best wire I have
found is from WEDM (wire electric discharge
machining) used by tool and die makers.
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You have to decide yourself how far you want to
go with details. Usually this is defined by your
eyes and your patience.
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When
everything is ready we reach the stage of painting.
Here is where the simulation really begins. Steel
has to look like steel, copper like copper, etc.
A variety of colors is necessary for any powerplant:
cast iron, steel, burnished steel, stainless steel,
aluminium, copper, etc. I have nearly 10 Testors
metal shades (enamel & metalizer), used for
various components. A photo of the actual engine
is invaluable here.
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So we paint everything, but it still doesn’t
look real enough because no engine is never clean
unless it is in a museum. Our models fly so some
weathering is necessary - oil stains, exhaust trails
etc. Dry brushing is used a lot for these things.
Silver to highlight details and cooling fins, darker
colors to increase depth impression. Anything to
make it dirty, although some areas will look polished.
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14 cylinder Salmson (Canton Unne), dummy for
a Brown GB24 twin. Engine diameter aprox. 4.5cm
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It is mostly in the eye of the builder. Compare
your product with the pictures and work on it until
you are happy with the result.
There is not much more to it, really. Just practice,
patience and good eyesight.
And a steady hand.
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Albatros engine removed. A few details with
suitable painting give the impression of the
real thing. It is only balsa.
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