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Forming Props With Your Computer
by Bill Parmley
August 20, 2005

 
With some help from your computer you can form prop blades with very precise diameter, pitch, and pitch/diameter ratios. Bill developed a spreadsheet application that does the calculations for you, and then wrote this article to explain the concepts involved. He's also provided a step-by-step tutorial that takes you from concept to finished prop!
 
I got interested in forming propellers when I decided I wanted to duplicate the shape and performance of the Peck-Polymers four-inch plastic prop. It seemed to be the right size for the small, 8" wingspan models that I was working with, but was too heavy, even with extensive scraping. So I decided to form my own prop from balsa, and began the quest to learn.

I read and reread the chapters on propellers in Don Ross's two books: Rubber Powered Model Airplanes and Flying Models, and made close examinations of a number of plastic propellers.Several days were spent thinking about the subject, and in the course of that time I put together several Excel spreadsheets to calculate and plot diameter, pitch, pitch-to-diameter ratio, and blade angle in different ways. As a result I came to a much better understanding of propeller shape and function, and I also developed a very useful spreadsheet. The spreadsheet can be used to calculate the shape of a propeller forming block, given prop diameter and pitch-to-diameter (P/D) ratio as input variables.

To use this tool, you must first decide the diameter and P/D ratio you want your prop to have. Don Ross’s books discuss how to select these values based on model size and type. The diameter will most likely be dictated by the size of the model. Suggested typical pitch-to-diameter ratios are 1.2, 1.3, and 1.4 for endurance, sport, and scale models, respectively.


The table below shows what my spreadsheet looks like. The red boxes contain the input variables, which are used to calculate pitch, blade angle, and the shape of the forming block.



When you enter numbers for prop diameter and P/D ratio, the spreadsheet calculates the pitch and blade angles automatically.



Once the prop blades are formed and ready to mount to the hub, you'll set them to the proper pitch by measuring the distance from the center of the propeller to a specific angle. As shown on the spreadsheet, convenient angles are 45° and 30° degrees, which correspond to basic drafting triangles. The angle you choose to measure to - whether 45° or 30° - should be the one that falls nearest the center of the prop blade.

     

I've found the tip angle to be the easiest to measure, since the triangle isn’t hidden under the blade and you don’t have to measure two things (radius and angle) at the same time. Note that if the tip angle is around 22.5° then a measuring device for this angle is easily fabricated by folding a small, square piece of paper twice diagonally. More about how these values are calculated later.

The lower part of the spreadsheet calculates the shape of the line that you will need to draw on your block of wood in order to carve the forming block. I have to admit that for me the greatest surprise in this business of propeller forming was the idea that you can draw a single straight line on a rectangular block of wood, do a bit of whittling, and produce a helical shape. The shape of that straight line (that is, the distance of the line from the edge of the block) is simply 1/Tangent(Blade Angle) at any given radius from the center of the propeller.


To aid in visualizing what the forming block should look like, I used Excel to create a graph showing blade radius versus block width. This graph is shown below as Figure 1. The shaded area represents the part of the block that would be cut away, as viewed from the top of the block. The graph enables us to quickly see how wide the forming block will need to be for a given thickness of wood and pitch of the propeller. By playing with the numbers a bit we can also see that the thicker the forming block is the wider it must be, and the more wood we have to cut away and the more work we have to do.



Fig. 1


I also included on the graph a plot of blade angle versus propeller radius (the red line). I found this line to be interesting, as it shows something that is difficult (for me, at least) to see when looking at an actual propeller: the fact that the angle, or twist, of the blade changes at a decreasing rate as we move from the hub to the tip.

If you want to build your own spreadsheet, here is a guide to setting up the formulas:

 

For the first part of the spreadsheet –


Pitch = Propeller Diameter * P/D Ratio
45° Radius = Pitch / (2 * Pi)
30° Radius = (45° Radius) * 1.73, where 1.73=Tangent 45° / Tangent 30°
Tip Angle = Arctangent (Pitch / (Pi * Propeller Diameter)).

For the forming block part of the spreadsheet –


Blade Angle = Arctangent (Pitch / (2 * Pi * Blade Radius))
Forming Block Line = Block Thickness * (1 / (Tangent (Blade Angle))

 
 
 
   



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